Chinatown: Behind the Steam

London's original Chinatown was in the East End, built around Chinese sailors and dockworkers. That was Limehouse. This is Soho. The food tells the rest. A candy wrapped in edible rice paper that went from a Shanghai factory to Richard Nixon's desk. A dumpling engineered to hold hot soup inside a sealed skin. A Japanese fish-shaped cake in a Chinese bakery. Nothing here is what it looks like from the outside. This walk gets you inside.